Or...what we call Soccer.
Very popular here as you might guess.
Everyone has their favorite team.
Here is mine:
From the street just outside our hotel.
Friday, July 25, 2008
Football
Football.
Or...what we call Soccer.
Very popular here as you might guess.
Everyone has their favorite team.
Here is mine:
From the street just outside our hotel.
Or...what we call Soccer.
Very popular here as you might guess.
Everyone has their favorite team.
Here is mine:
From the street just outside our hotel.
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
About that headscarf you're wearing....
Would like to capture my thoughts on this subject but first a couple of caveats:
1. My thoughts may change over time!
2. I am a solid feminist - have been for a long time - more to the point I believe in freedom to choose for both women and men.
3. This is a sensitive subject.
4. Turkey is > 95% Muslim but is a secular democracy.
5. My comments are based on observations in Istanbul (particularly but not exclusively in Old Town). The vast majority of women in Istanbul do NOT wear them.
With all that in mind I have to say it has been absolutely fascinating seeing the incredible variety of head coverings used by devout Muslim women. The stereotype back home is the Chador - the black head-to-toe covering where only the eyes show. You do see some of that but probably well under 10%, maybe less than 5% of all the women who wear head scarves.
More frequently you see beautiful, multi-colored designs which are worn over the head only with the entire face visible. There is wide, wide variety in both the scarves and the rest of the outfit. Younger women tend to wear more westernized clothes while the older women and "grandma's" often wear a kind of leather overcoat.
Two "Grandma's" - One Shopping at the G.B.
I saw one young women who could have been a hip-hop girl - jeans, t-shirt, high-tops - and a head scarf. Some wear beautiful, color coordinated designer outfits. There is a whole new industry in Turkey lead by a company called Ipec which specializes in the designer fashion outfits which comform to more strict Muslim interpretation.
I also surmise that the dress is more conservative the further east you go - as you approach Konya in central Turkey and on towards Iran, Syria, etc. its pretty clear things tighten up a lot.
So how do I feel about all this. Right now it's pretty simple for me. Does the woman freely choose to wear these clothes as a sign of her faith or is she truly being forced to do so. Being forced is oppression pure and simple. Choosing freely is free expression of religious and cultural beliefs.
In Turkey, the secret seems to be tolerance and co-existance. Most secular Muslims seem to live pretty much in peace side-by-side with more fundamentalist ones. I suspect they have strong opinions about each other. But there is tolerance.
The official state is tolerant - to an extent. Interestingly, when Ataturk established Turkey after WW I, one of the laws forbid religious garb in public office buildings. This applies to men and women. To quote a famous Turk, "If not for Ataturk we would be Iran."
In France, there is great controversy because the government has forbidden female students to wear them in classrooms. This seems like selective discrimination to me. Shall we forbid Christians from wearing crosses, Jews from wearing Yamulkes, etc... ?
There are lessons here for Americans too. We have fundamentalists as well. There are those who say America is a "Christian Nation". This is true only in the sense that the majority of Americans practice some form of Christianity. The claim that we were founded as a christian nation is of course demonstrably false history. The path they want us to follow is the one that leads away from secular, tolerant democracy and towards intolerant theocracy. If you think thats a good path I suggest you visit Iran or Saudi Arabia. Or perhaps you should review American history - you will quickly learn that many of those who founded or came to America were fleeing oppressive state religions.
So my bottom line is we should be free to choose our path and free to have our own opinions about what others do. But not free to stop them for making those choices. Is there a test for the limits of tolerance. I think Jefferson had it about right when he wrote that he would tolerate his neighbors behavior though he might disapprove as long as, "It neither picks my pocket nor breaks my leg".
One last thought. I do not mean to imply that having freedom of choice would make it easy for a women in Turkey from a fundamentalist family to make a different choice. I suspect in many cases she would likely have to choose between her "freedom" and her family. This is no small thing. But at least she has that option - the state does not restrict her from choosing.
I am glad and proud that I come from a family of strong, independent, and free women including my mother and sisters, my wife and my daughter. I wouldn't have it any other way. I believe it is the best way for all humans. But I respect that others may see it differently and that their cultures have survived thousands of years.
The world could use a quite a bit more of the kind of tolerance and respect I have seen in Turkey.
1. My thoughts may change over time!
2. I am a solid feminist - have been for a long time - more to the point I believe in freedom to choose for both women and men.
3. This is a sensitive subject.
4. Turkey is > 95% Muslim but is a secular democracy.
5. My comments are based on observations in Istanbul (particularly but not exclusively in Old Town). The vast majority of women in Istanbul do NOT wear them.
With all that in mind I have to say it has been absolutely fascinating seeing the incredible variety of head coverings used by devout Muslim women. The stereotype back home is the Chador - the black head-to-toe covering where only the eyes show. You do see some of that but probably well under 10%, maybe less than 5% of all the women who wear head scarves.
More frequently you see beautiful, multi-colored designs which are worn over the head only with the entire face visible. There is wide, wide variety in both the scarves and the rest of the outfit. Younger women tend to wear more westernized clothes while the older women and "grandma's" often wear a kind of leather overcoat.
Two "Grandma's" - One Shopping at the G.B.
I also surmise that the dress is more conservative the further east you go - as you approach Konya in central Turkey and on towards Iran, Syria, etc. its pretty clear things tighten up a lot.
So how do I feel about all this. Right now it's pretty simple for me. Does the woman freely choose to wear these clothes as a sign of her faith or is she truly being forced to do so. Being forced is oppression pure and simple. Choosing freely is free expression of religious and cultural beliefs.
Beth and I have had a wonderful time seeing and discussing all of this.
Here she is (far right) wearing a head scarf as sign of respect while we tour a mosque.
Here she is (far right) wearing a head scarf as sign of respect while we tour a mosque.
In Turkey, the secret seems to be tolerance and co-existance. Most secular Muslims seem to live pretty much in peace side-by-side with more fundamentalist ones. I suspect they have strong opinions about each other. But there is tolerance.
The official state is tolerant - to an extent. Interestingly, when Ataturk established Turkey after WW I, one of the laws forbid religious garb in public office buildings. This applies to men and women. To quote a famous Turk, "If not for Ataturk we would be Iran."
In France, there is great controversy because the government has forbidden female students to wear them in classrooms. This seems like selective discrimination to me. Shall we forbid Christians from wearing crosses, Jews from wearing Yamulkes, etc... ?
There are lessons here for Americans too. We have fundamentalists as well. There are those who say America is a "Christian Nation". This is true only in the sense that the majority of Americans practice some form of Christianity. The claim that we were founded as a christian nation is of course demonstrably false history. The path they want us to follow is the one that leads away from secular, tolerant democracy and towards intolerant theocracy. If you think thats a good path I suggest you visit Iran or Saudi Arabia. Or perhaps you should review American history - you will quickly learn that many of those who founded or came to America were fleeing oppressive state religions.
So my bottom line is we should be free to choose our path and free to have our own opinions about what others do. But not free to stop them for making those choices. Is there a test for the limits of tolerance. I think Jefferson had it about right when he wrote that he would tolerate his neighbors behavior though he might disapprove as long as, "It neither picks my pocket nor breaks my leg".
One last thought. I do not mean to imply that having freedom of choice would make it easy for a women in Turkey from a fundamentalist family to make a different choice. I suspect in many cases she would likely have to choose between her "freedom" and her family. This is no small thing. But at least she has that option - the state does not restrict her from choosing.
I am glad and proud that I come from a family of strong, independent, and free women including my mother and sisters, my wife and my daughter. I wouldn't have it any other way. I believe it is the best way for all humans. But I respect that others may see it differently and that their cultures have survived thousands of years.
The world could use a quite a bit more of the kind of tolerance and respect I have seen in Turkey.
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
A “Back Door” experience
Blogging from the roof terrace of the Sebnem Hotel. A three-quarter moon shines on the Golden Horn where it meets the Bosphorus. We just retuned from dinner where we had a true “Back Door” experience. A “Back Door” experience is when you break free of the routine tourist experience and connect to the local culture and people in a special way. Beth and I love these and make a real effort to seek them out or make them happen.
Tonight was a particularly memorable one. We headed up to New Town for dinner. Stepping off the tram we merged into a sea of people out strolling, talking, seeing and being seen. Yes there were lots of local but lots of tourists too. We quickly slipped onto a side street and then down an alley and into Bostanas Restaurant. This is a small, family run Armenian place – only 6 tables and clearly all the other customers were regular locals. We were greeted by the owner Aliser and his face lit up when we mumbled a few broken words of Turkish.
Dave & Alishir (the owner),
"No Alisher-bey! I don't want to drink any more tonight!"
Downstairs in the kitchen where true magic happens.We have had few other dining experiences to match this one.
Jai Yun in San Francisco: Seven tables, no English spoken, no menu. You eat what they bring. Who knew Jellyfish Salad would taste great. The diners actually applauded at the end of the meal when the chef came out.
Brezelgrob in Vienna: Picnic tables in a small courtyard, locals drinking beer and eating the best schnitzel in Vienna. It started to rain and everyone picked up their plates and moved into the small, smoky, cozy interior. Or even better in Vienna there'a Umar Fisch in the Nascht Market.
I guess I would add any time at Anna’s Pizza or Pierce’s BBQ – hometown favorites that I grew up with and that still have lots of local atmosphere.
Istanbul
Well it has been a pretty amazing couple of days. With each trip I seem to always start or end by saying, “This was the best trip ever”…. and this is no exception. Already I have to say this is the best trip ever. Istanbul is everything we hoped it would be – an incredible mix of people and cultures with amazing site and great food.
So much has happened already that I am far behind in my blog.
Mostly we have focused on Old Town site of some of the most ancient and impressive sites including the Blue Mosque, Aya Sofia (first a Church, then converted to a mosque), Topkapi Palace (home of the sultans).
Inside Aya Sofia - That scaffolding is taller than the Statue of Liberty.
Yesterday we walked several miles around the Old Town. Using the Rick Steve’s guidebook we ventured into several locals neighborhoods where you had the distinct feeling of not being with a bunch of other tourists.
We also spent time in the Grand Bazzar (Bizarre?) and the Spice Market. These have been marketplaces for centries and the Grand Bazzar alone has over 4000 shops or stalls.
A brief respite from being assaulted by Carpet Salesmen.
Let me repeat that – OVER 4000 shops. It makes the Mall of America look like the local strip shopping center.
They sell pretty much everything here – from cheap crap (and lots of it) to true antiques. There is even an informal currency exchange where men shout at each other and into cell phones as they trade thousands or Lira, Dollars, Euro, etc. – a kind of poor man’s Wall Street and real mad house.
Typical Scene at the Grand B.
The Spice Market is similar but specializes in spices and foodsutffs. Piles of freshly ground cumin, tumeric and chiles. Mounds of fruit and nuts. Honey dripping from honeycomb into containers to be transferred for sale. And literally thousands of people jammed into a few city blocks jostling each other to get through and get the goods.
A group of women checking out the goods... and me while I take their photo.
At the spice market - man did it smell good in there!
I have had the good fortune to go to markets in many parts of Europe including some pretty awesome ones like the main market in Budapest or the Nascht Market in Vienna. I have never seen anything even close to this.
So much has happened already that I am far behind in my blog.
Mostly we have focused on Old Town site of some of the most ancient and impressive sites including the Blue Mosque, Aya Sofia (first a Church, then converted to a mosque), Topkapi Palace (home of the sultans).
Inside Aya Sofia - That scaffolding is taller than the Statue of Liberty.
Yesterday we walked several miles around the Old Town. Using the Rick Steve’s guidebook we ventured into several locals neighborhoods where you had the distinct feeling of not being with a bunch of other tourists.
We also spent time in the Grand Bazzar (Bizarre?) and the Spice Market. These have been marketplaces for centries and the Grand Bazzar alone has over 4000 shops or stalls.
A brief respite from being assaulted by Carpet Salesmen.
Let me repeat that – OVER 4000 shops. It makes the Mall of America look like the local strip shopping center.
They sell pretty much everything here – from cheap crap (and lots of it) to true antiques. There is even an informal currency exchange where men shout at each other and into cell phones as they trade thousands or Lira, Dollars, Euro, etc. – a kind of poor man’s Wall Street and real mad house.
Typical Scene at the Grand B.
A group of women checking out the goods... and me while I take their photo.
At the spice market - man did it smell good in there!Monday, July 21, 2008
Good Travel Karma
Arrived at the Sebnem hotel after more than 24 hours of travel. The now standard and expected screw up at JFK caused us to miss our original flight so we arrived about 12 hours later than expected in Istanbul. No worries – WE ARE HERE! Driving in from the airport you can already get a sense of the mix of very old and very modern. It’s when you turn into the Sultanamet district and pass through the old city wall that you enter the old city you expect. Narrow streets twist madly up and down as almost hidden alleys flash past. We hold our breath as the van transporting us to the hotel squeezes past cars coming from the other direction – there’s no way they will both fit but somehow they do.
The driver is young and amazed that we speak a few words of Turkish. Of course, he quickly surpasses my very, very limited vocab and I find myself repeating frequently “Amlamadum” – I don’t understand. But we all smile.
Once again I appreciate how fortunate I am to have Beth, the love of my life, share my passion for travel and the exotic. Despite the long journey, the fatigue, the heat, the hurry up and wait, and how strange and new everything appears she is upbeat and positive. The truth is I probably complain more about those things than she does. I can’t imagine taking this trip without her. Miraculously our bags appear at the baggage claim and she declares, “We will have good travel karma in Turkey”.
The driver is young and amazed that we speak a few words of Turkish. Of course, he quickly surpasses my very, very limited vocab and I find myself repeating frequently “Amlamadum” – I don’t understand. But we all smile.
Once again I appreciate how fortunate I am to have Beth, the love of my life, share my passion for travel and the exotic. Despite the long journey, the fatigue, the heat, the hurry up and wait, and how strange and new everything appears she is upbeat and positive. The truth is I probably complain more about those things than she does. I can’t imagine taking this trip without her. Miraculously our bags appear at the baggage claim and she declares, “We will have good travel karma in Turkey”.
Thursday, July 17, 2008
The Usual Rush
The Blue Mosque (Istanbul)
The usual rush...
Packing and trying to wrap up work and other responsibilities.
One thing that always turns out to be true: many of the details & tasks you think are important to take care of before you go seem pretty trivial by the time you get home.
Change in Latitude Does Lead to Change in Attitude.
Mistakes Were Made
Mistakes Were Made in Dave's Office.
With Special Guests "The Island Girls".
Make your own mistakes. Get our CD: "Mistakes Were Made"
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