A “Back Door” experience

Blogging from the roof terrace of the Sebnem Hotel. A three-quarter moon shines on the Golden Horn where it meets the Bosphorus. We just retuned from dinner where we had a true “Back Door” experience. A “Back Door” experience is when you break free of the routine tourist experience and connect to the local culture and people in a special way. Beth and I love these and make a real effort to seek them out or make them happen.

Tonight was a particularly memorable one. We headed up to New Town for dinner. Stepping off the tram we merged into a sea of people out strolling, talking, seeing and being seen. Yes there were lots of local but lots of tourists too. We quickly slipped onto a side street and then down an alley and into Bostanas Restaurant. This is a small, family run Armenian place – only 6 tables and clearly all the other customers were regular locals. We were greeted by the owner Aliser and his face lit up when we mumbled a few broken words of Turkish.

Dave & Alishir (the owner),
"No Alisher-bey! I don't want to drink any more tonight!"

Quickly we were led to a small table and his nieces began bringing out food. We picked a few things ourselves but mostly he just brought us what he thought we should have. Wine or Raki (a Turkish liquor) were flowing at most tables. Between my limited Turkish and French and Aliser Bey’s broken English we gradually worked out each others stories. Other customers joined in – two local Turks who looked like they practically lived in the place and 4 young people from France. At one point I got his niece to take me downstairs to the tiny kitchen so I could see where all this good stuff was coming from. The night ended with laughter and all of us wishing each other well.

Downstairs in the kitchen where true magic happens.

We have had few other dining experiences to match this one.

Jai Yun in San Francisco: Seven tables, no English spoken, no menu. You eat what they bring. Who knew Jellyfish Salad would taste great. The diners actually applauded at the end of the meal when the chef came out.

Brezelgrob in Vienna: Picnic tables in a small courtyard, locals drinking beer and eating the best schnitzel in Vienna. It started to rain and everyone picked up their plates and moved into the small, smoky, cozy interior. Or even better in Vienna there'a Umar Fisch in the Nascht Market.

I guess I would add any time at Anna’s Pizza or Pierce’s BBQ – hometown favorites that I grew up with and that still have lots of local atmosphere.