The moment I step off the plane it hits me. I've been fortunate to do a bit of travel including some exotic locations: Kenya, Tanzania, Turkey, Israel. This is different than anything I have experienced before. Immediately there is an intensity of sounds, sights, smells and activity.
Intense. This is the word one often hears associated with travel in India. There is the scale of course, after all the place is huge and crowded. But there is more to it than size. It's as if the heat has boiled it down to an super concentrated mixture, undiluted, overwhelming and intoxicating. This theme of Intensity, which first hits me while standing at baggage claim will recur and be reinforced as we travel. Even now as I reflect, I can't think of a better word to summarize this vast and complex place.
The heat and spices of the food.
The overwhelming crowds and traffic.
The diversity of dress and culture and religion.
The dust, filth and crushing poverty contrasting with the natural beauty, wealth and opulence.
And the people. The rich variety of faces and skin tones. Wide smiles seem to come easily, even from the most disadvantaged. But there are also occasional scowls and sadness. The wealthy and some of the most wretched I have ever seen (and I've walked the back alleys of Istanbul and sat in a Masai dung hut) mix freely in the streets.
Yes, intense is the only word that will do.
Tuesday, November 20, 2012
Sunday, November 18, 2012
The Puppet Show
One night we visited a replica of an authentic Rajistani village. Crafts, performances and food all designed to give you a sense of village life in this region.
This girl greeted us at the entrance and marked our foreheads with crimson and rice grains:
These two young girls danced and twirled while their mother and father played traditional instruments:
The best part however was the puppet show! This man played the tabla (Indian drums) and sang the narration:
Here is the "stage":
We laughed so hard at this crazy, energetic show that included a suggestive dancing girl, Michael Jackson (whose head comes off and flys off into space several times), a scary snake, and a horse and man doing things that are not suitable for me to describe in this family-oriented blog!
It was truly hilarious even though I couldn't understand a word of it!!
Then we sat down to a traditional meal
I'd go back just to see the puppets again...
This girl greeted us at the entrance and marked our foreheads with crimson and rice grains:
These two young girls danced and twirled while their mother and father played traditional instruments:
The best part however was the puppet show! This man played the tabla (Indian drums) and sang the narration:
Here is the "stage":
We laughed so hard at this crazy, energetic show that included a suggestive dancing girl, Michael Jackson (whose head comes off and flys off into space several times), a scary snake, and a horse and man doing things that are not suitable for me to describe in this family-oriented blog!
It was truly hilarious even though I couldn't understand a word of it!!
Then we sat down to a traditional meal
I'd go back just to see the puppets again...
The Ultimate Back Door Travel Experience
Beth and I subscribe to Rick Steves' back door travel philosophy. Basically this is about avoiding the typical tourist-trap, big bus, race through the sites travel experience. That's the "front door".
The "back door" is all about getting close to the ground, less rushed and more authentic. It's about trying to really understand and feel how the locals live. It's about staying at the 2 star B&B even when you can afford better, eating in a place full of locals that doesn't have a "Tourista Menu" (or any English on the menu), going through the museum in reverse order to avoid the big crowd. Most Importantly it is about taking advantage of any opportunity to hang out with locals. We consciously and deliberately collect friends from across the world with the hope that we might someday share a backdoor experience with them.
So when Manish told me that we were going to have Sunday lunch in Delhi with an old friend and his family I was pretty sure I was in for something special.
Ever the concerned, caring friend he asked, "Are you sure this is OK? If you want to do something else that's fine."
"No way!", I replied and proceeded to explain the back door philosophy.
I was not disappointed.
Sanjeev was a close childhood friend of Manish but they had lost touch for almost 30 years. Through the power of social networking, they recently reconnected and our visit to India provided the first opportunity to meet in person after all those years. Sanjeev's mother was important in Manish's early life and a close friend of his mother as well. So it was an extra bonus when he learned that she would be there as well.
We drove to a residential area of Delhi and joined Sanjeev, his wife, two children and his parents for a wonderful home cooked meal. It was the kind of backdoor experience I crave and it was, in a word, fantastic.
The pictures best tell the tale.
Manish & Sanjeev catch up on old times. "Remember how we used to play in the garden after school and eat fresh pears from the tree?"
The table is set. The food was all home made and really GOOD!
Grandfather takes a short break from watching the big cricket match (India vs. England!) to join us.
Old friends reunited.
The "back door" is all about getting close to the ground, less rushed and more authentic. It's about trying to really understand and feel how the locals live. It's about staying at the 2 star B&B even when you can afford better, eating in a place full of locals that doesn't have a "Tourista Menu" (or any English on the menu), going through the museum in reverse order to avoid the big crowd. Most Importantly it is about taking advantage of any opportunity to hang out with locals. We consciously and deliberately collect friends from across the world with the hope that we might someday share a backdoor experience with them.
So when Manish told me that we were going to have Sunday lunch in Delhi with an old friend and his family I was pretty sure I was in for something special.
Ever the concerned, caring friend he asked, "Are you sure this is OK? If you want to do something else that's fine."
"No way!", I replied and proceeded to explain the back door philosophy.
I was not disappointed.
Sanjeev was a close childhood friend of Manish but they had lost touch for almost 30 years. Through the power of social networking, they recently reconnected and our visit to India provided the first opportunity to meet in person after all those years. Sanjeev's mother was important in Manish's early life and a close friend of his mother as well. So it was an extra bonus when he learned that she would be there as well.
We drove to a residential area of Delhi and joined Sanjeev, his wife, two children and his parents for a wonderful home cooked meal. It was the kind of backdoor experience I crave and it was, in a word, fantastic.
The pictures best tell the tale.
Manish & Sanjeev catch up on old times. "Remember how we used to play in the garden after school and eat fresh pears from the tree?"
The table is set. The food was all home made and really GOOD!
Grandfather takes a short break from watching the big cricket match (India vs. England!) to join us.
Old friends reunited.
Thursday, November 15, 2012
India
I've been fascinated by India for a long time for reasons that I've never been quite able to understand myself.
Perhaps it is the rich and ancient culture, or the incredible diversity of people, or the rise of one of the worlds largest democracies after centuries of oppression.
Or maybe it's the food. After all, this love affair began with my first meal at a real Indian Restaurant almost 30 years ago!
Regardless of the reason, I have longed to spend time there and when work-related travel presented the opportunity to be close by I couldn't pass up the chance to visit. A short visit, a single appetizer as it were, but one that was sure to whet the appetite for a future feast.
Of course, the best meals are shared with others and the best travel is through the back door. Manish, my colleague and friend is a US citizen but native of India. When I asked if he would be willing to take me there once we had completed our work in Abu Dhabi he graciously and enthusiastically agreed. He then set about planning what turned out to be an unforgettable visit to two corners of the Golden Triangle of India: Delhi and Jaipur.
We met in Abu Dhabi where we had several days of work to do before heading out for our adventure together. Over breakfast the first morning in AD, Manish says he has something important to tell me. Something personal. Something that would affect our trip. He has a strange look on his face - a mix of excitement and apprehension.
He started off, "I've met someone. Her name is Charuta. Actually I've known her for almost 2 years but since we worked together we avoided mixing our personal and professional lives. But we realized that we truly liked each other. She is Indian too and we have so much in common. So we started dating and that, in turn led to us falling in love....and....we are getting married! Is it ok if she comes on the trip with us?"
I must have had a grin a mile wide and could hardly contain myself. I stuttered, "Manish, this is fantastic! I am so, so happy for you. You have such a big heart - you need a woman to help fill it up. This is GREAT!"
"Thank you.", he responded and then with mild apprehension, "But is it OK that she is coming with us on 'our' trip."
Again, the mile-wide grin, "Are you kidding? Of course it's ok. It will no doubt enrich the trip. Frankly, I am honored that the two of you would share your maiden voyage together to India with me. This is GREAT!"
And so, early one evening I boarded a plane in Abu Dhabi with my friend and his fiancée to begin a long awaited adventure to India.
Manish & Charuta preparing for take off:
Perhaps it is the rich and ancient culture, or the incredible diversity of people, or the rise of one of the worlds largest democracies after centuries of oppression.
Or maybe it's the food. After all, this love affair began with my first meal at a real Indian Restaurant almost 30 years ago!
Regardless of the reason, I have longed to spend time there and when work-related travel presented the opportunity to be close by I couldn't pass up the chance to visit. A short visit, a single appetizer as it were, but one that was sure to whet the appetite for a future feast.
Of course, the best meals are shared with others and the best travel is through the back door. Manish, my colleague and friend is a US citizen but native of India. When I asked if he would be willing to take me there once we had completed our work in Abu Dhabi he graciously and enthusiastically agreed. He then set about planning what turned out to be an unforgettable visit to two corners of the Golden Triangle of India: Delhi and Jaipur.
We met in Abu Dhabi where we had several days of work to do before heading out for our adventure together. Over breakfast the first morning in AD, Manish says he has something important to tell me. Something personal. Something that would affect our trip. He has a strange look on his face - a mix of excitement and apprehension.
He started off, "I've met someone. Her name is Charuta. Actually I've known her for almost 2 years but since we worked together we avoided mixing our personal and professional lives. But we realized that we truly liked each other. She is Indian too and we have so much in common. So we started dating and that, in turn led to us falling in love....and....we are getting married! Is it ok if she comes on the trip with us?"
I must have had a grin a mile wide and could hardly contain myself. I stuttered, "Manish, this is fantastic! I am so, so happy for you. You have such a big heart - you need a woman to help fill it up. This is GREAT!"
"Thank you.", he responded and then with mild apprehension, "But is it OK that she is coming with us on 'our' trip."
Again, the mile-wide grin, "Are you kidding? Of course it's ok. It will no doubt enrich the trip. Frankly, I am honored that the two of you would share your maiden voyage together to India with me. This is GREAT!"
And so, early one evening I boarded a plane in Abu Dhabi with my friend and his fiancée to begin a long awaited adventure to India.
Manish & Charuta preparing for take off:
Wednesday, November 14, 2012
CCAD = Audacious
This trip did involve some time in Abu Dhabi and some work too! So a word about that as well.
Abu Dhabi (AD) , the largest emirate of the United Arab Emirates (UAE) has undergone spectacular growth during the late 20th and early 21st centuries. In 1960 this was a fishing village with an estimated population of 25,000. By 1985 the population had grown to almost 300,000 and today there are over 2 MILLION with growth projected to reach 3 million by 2030. Fueled by oil wealth and a massive ex-pat labor force, AD has transformed itself into a thriving and diverse community.
The leadership has clearly attempted to balance preserving old traditions with the advantages of a modern society. Major investments in infrastructure, education and healthcare are diversifying the economic base and creating an enviable standard of living.
Everything is larger than life with huge and beautiful architecture:
As part of their efforts to to take healthcare to the next level the Emirate has partnered with Cleveland Clinic to build Cleveland Clinic Abu Dhabi (CCAD), the largest and most modern healthcare facility in the region. The facility will be owned by Emirate and operated by CC. Their shared goal is to bring the exceptional quality and patient experience for which the Cleveland Clinic is known to Abu Dhabi. It is a truly audacious and worthy goal for both organizations and, if successful, could serve as a model for similar ventures in other parts of the world.
As you might imagine the challenges are immense given the scope, scale, complexity, and cultural differences.
It has been said that while Fred Astaire was a great dancer, Ginger Rogers was even better because she did danced backwards and in high heels. I told some of my colleagues in AD that if the Cleveland Clinic is Fred, they are Ginger. To which they replied, "Yes, and we do it on sand too!"
At the job site. Some proof that I actually did some work on this trip too:
In the "belly of the beast" construction is well underway and there is an incredible maze of pipes and wiring:
Important job site safety tips brought to you by Homer Simpson. D'oh! :
It is truly a privilege and honor to play my very small part in this important endeavor.
CCAD = Audacious.
Abu Dhabi (AD) , the largest emirate of the United Arab Emirates (UAE) has undergone spectacular growth during the late 20th and early 21st centuries. In 1960 this was a fishing village with an estimated population of 25,000. By 1985 the population had grown to almost 300,000 and today there are over 2 MILLION with growth projected to reach 3 million by 2030. Fueled by oil wealth and a massive ex-pat labor force, AD has transformed itself into a thriving and diverse community.
The leadership has clearly attempted to balance preserving old traditions with the advantages of a modern society. Major investments in infrastructure, education and healthcare are diversifying the economic base and creating an enviable standard of living.
Everything is larger than life with huge and beautiful architecture:
As part of their efforts to to take healthcare to the next level the Emirate has partnered with Cleveland Clinic to build Cleveland Clinic Abu Dhabi (CCAD), the largest and most modern healthcare facility in the region. The facility will be owned by Emirate and operated by CC. Their shared goal is to bring the exceptional quality and patient experience for which the Cleveland Clinic is known to Abu Dhabi. It is a truly audacious and worthy goal for both organizations and, if successful, could serve as a model for similar ventures in other parts of the world.
As you might imagine the challenges are immense given the scope, scale, complexity, and cultural differences.
It has been said that while Fred Astaire was a great dancer, Ginger Rogers was even better because she did danced backwards and in high heels. I told some of my colleagues in AD that if the Cleveland Clinic is Fred, they are Ginger. To which they replied, "Yes, and we do it on sand too!"
At the job site. Some proof that I actually did some work on this trip too:
In the "belly of the beast" construction is well underway and there is an incredible maze of pipes and wiring:
Important job site safety tips brought to you by Homer Simpson. D'oh! :
It is truly a privilege and honor to play my very small part in this important endeavor.
CCAD = Audacious.
Verba volant, scripta manent
A Latin proverb meaning "spoken words fly away, written words remain"
...or as I've often said, "Don't write down something that you wouldn't want to read later in the New York Times."
Good advice to ponder as we watch the fall of several high ranking US Generals in part because of their use of email.
Of course, it would be best to resist temptation.
Hat Tip: Dr. Massimo Ferrigno.
...or as I've often said, "Don't write down something that you wouldn't want to read later in the New York Times."
Good advice to ponder as we watch the fall of several high ranking US Generals in part because of their use of email.
Of course, it would be best to resist temptation.
Hat Tip: Dr. Massimo Ferrigno.
Sunday, November 11, 2012
Welcome to Abu Dhabi
It's good to be on the road and blogging again. Had previously been as far east as Israel and Kenya so this is also a new personal record for traveling east.
My initial impressions: wonderful diversity of people, dress and culture and a place that likes everything supersized:
View from the Intercontintal Hotel. Note that there are almost no sharp edges or corners on the buildings.
More to come but wanted to get a first post up!
My initial impressions: wonderful diversity of people, dress and culture and a place that likes everything supersized:
View from the Intercontintal Hotel. Note that there are almost no sharp edges or corners on the buildings.
More to come but wanted to get a first post up!
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